Leather Terms


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ANILINE FINISH
Also known as pure aniline leather, aniline finish is full grain leather which has been
soaked in aniline dye, but does not have any subsequent pigmented or clear coat
finishes applied. Only the best hides which are relatively free from gross imperfections
can be made into aniline finish leather. It is soft, pliable and considered the premier
grade of leather.

ANILINE
Aniline is a type of dye used to give initial color to a hide. Aniline dying is the process of
putting hides into a drum and allowing the dye to soak completely through the hide.
Thus the phrase "aniline dyed all the way through" comes to be.

BUFFING
This is a process used to minimize the appearance of gross surface imperfections such as
wrinkles, parasitic damage or healed scars in the finished hide. This process makes the
leather more uniform, but also obliterates the natural grain and markings that make each
hide unique and naturally beautiful.

CORRECTED GRAIN
Top grain leather that has been buffed or sanded to minimize imperfections in the hide.
There are varying degrees of corrected leather. Most if not all of the very inexpensive
leather chairs use "heavily corrected" leather. In this process, the finish on the leather
is usually painted on instead of vat dying the hide. This closes the pores of the leather
and doesn't allow it to "breathe" as it normally would. In addition, the graining process
that is done under extreme pressure and heat makes the leather very stiff and
sensitive to hot and cold causing premature cracking of the leather.

DRUM DYED
A dying process accomplished by tumbling leather in a rotating drum to encourage thedye to penetrate fully.

EMBOSSING
To mechanically imprint unique grain effects under heat or high pressure in order to
smooth the grain or give a unique patterned look (ostrich, alligator, floral, etc.) Top grain
leather with excessive imperfections is often buffed smooth and then embossed with a grain pattern.

FINISHING
To make leather more durable, clear or pigmented substances are applied to the hide.
These provide abrasion and stain resistance as well as color enhancement. The finishing
process usually involves three to four coating operations. Generally, the more finish a
leather has, the stiffer (boardier) it becomes. Semi aniline leathers tend to be softer than
heavily finished leather, although this can largely be overcome by milling.

FULL GRAIN
Full grain leathers are top grain leathers that have not been corrected in any way,
allowing the natural markings and character of the leather to show through. Full grain
leathers are therefore, much cleaner hides to begin with, minimal scars, bug bites, etc.
which also make them more expensive than corrected grain leathers.

GRAIN
Markings or patterns on the leather surface. Naturally occurring grain is caused by
wrinkles, markings and pores in the hide.

HAND
The softness or "feel" of a leather is referred to as its hand.

HIDE
A raw or tanned pelt taken from a large adult animal. Cattle, buffalo, sheep, goat and
pig hides have been used to make upholstery leather. However, cattle or steer hides
are the most common.

LEATHER
A collective term used to describe any tanned animal skin.

MILLING
A natural softening process in which leather is tumbled in a drum.

NATURAL MARKINGS
These subtle markings on leather are the equivalent of a finger print. they distinguish
general leather from man-made materials. Other marks which can appear on the surface
of leather are healed scars, barbed wire marks, wrinkles, brands, and insect bites. Gross
imperfections are normally cut out of the finished product.

NU-BUK LEATHER
Nu-buk is a pure aniline product that has been abrased to create a slight suede type
nap resulting in a very soft hand.

PATINA
A luster that naturally occurs as leather ages.

PROTECTED LEATHER
Protected aniline leather is less expensive and more common than aniline or semi-
aniline leather. Its coloration is more consistent and because it has been coated with
protective pigments, the leather's natural markings are less noticeable. These protected
leathers are more heavily pigmented than semi-aniline leather and are easier to clean
than pure leather because surface pigments repel water and stains...standing up well
to heavy use.

PULL UP
Pull up leather is one that when pulled tight products as burst of color, used as upholstery
leather it gives a worn, weathered appearance or a distressed look. Pull-ups are full
aniline leathers that have an oil and/or wax application. When the leather is pulled the oil
and/or wax separates causing the color to become lighter.

SAUVAGE
A two-toned effect which adds depth to the leather.

SEMI-ANILINE DYED
The term used to describe aniline dyed leather which has only a small amount of clear
or pigmented finish. It is a premium product, which allows the hides natural character to
show through.

SPLIT GRAIN
The term refers to the underneath layers of the hide which have been "split" off from the
top grain. Splits are buffed, sanded and embossed to look like grain leather. Split hides
are stiffer than top grain leathers.

TOP GRAIN
Leather that contains the top portions of the hide...the part that had hair on it. Top grain
leather can be full grain or corrected grain leather. The top portion of the hide is
approximately 3/64" about the thickness of a penny.